Nishi-Izu by bus: Dogashima's sea caves, Koganezaki's golden cliffs and Matsuzaki

See · Nishi-Izu · Published 2026-10-25.

Izu's quiet west coast: boat trips into Tensodo cave, the tombolo at low tide, sunset at Cape Koganezaki and the old merchant town of Matsuzaki, with bus times from Shuzenji.

Shuzenji → Dogashima

Tokai Bus, about 1 h 10 min

Koganezaki → Dogashima

about 20 min by bus

Tombolo

low tide, roughly March to September

The west coast of the Izu Peninsula faces Suruga Bay and, on clear days, Mount Fuji. It has no railway, fewer visitors than the east, and some of the most dramatic cliffs on the peninsula. It is also the best place in Izu for sunsets. Here is how to see it in a day or two by bus.

Getting there

Take the Shinkansen to Mishima and the Izuhakone Railway to Shuzenji, then a Tokai Bus bound for Matsuzaki. The bus crosses the mountains to Toi and follows the coast south; Dogashima is about 1 hour 10 minutes from Shuzenji. Buses run every hour or two, less often in winter, so plan around the timetable and check the last bus back. The two-day bus pass for Dogashima, Matsuzaki and Irozaki is good value if you also want the south coast; our guide to getting around Izu lists the passes.

Toi: the gateway to the west coast

The first town the bus reaches after crossing the mountains is Toi, a hot spring resort that grew around one of Japan's historic gold mines. Its beach faces west, and on clear days Mount Fuji appears across the bay. It is a convenient place to stop for lunch or to spend a night before continuing south.

Cape Koganezaki: the golden cape

About 20 minutes north of Dogashima by bus, the cliffs of Cape Koganezaki turn gold in the evening sun, which gave the cape its name. A rock offshore is said to look like a horse's head. The novelist Yukio Mishima set part of his novel Beastly Entanglements here. The bus stop is Koganezaki Crystal Park. Time your visit for the hour before sunset.

Dogashima: Tensodo cave and the sightseeing boats

Dogashima's pale cliffs, arches and small islands are best seen from the sea. Short boat trips from the harbour enter Tensodo, a sea cave whose collapsed roof lets in a shaft of light onto green water. The cave has been a natural monument since 1935, and a promenade above it lets you look down through the opening. Longer cruises continue along the coast towards Koganezaki. Boats do not run in rough seas, which are more common in winter.

The tombolo at low tide

From roughly March to September, a sandbar about 200 to 250 metres long appears at low tide between the beach and the Sanshiro islands, and you can walk across. From October to February the tide is usually not low enough. Check the tide times before you go, start back before the water rises, and wear shoes with grip: the rocks are covered in seaweed. The tombolo and the cliffs are part of the Izu Peninsula Geopark.

Matsuzaki: namako walls and a quiet harbour

Further south, Matsuzaki is a small port town with old merchant houses and storehouses decorated with namako-kabe, walls covered in square tiles set in raised white plaster. An hour or two is enough to walk the old streets and the river. Nearby Iwachi beach is one of the calmest bays on the coast.

Further north: Osezaki and views of Fuji

At the northern end of the west coast, the cape of Osezaki has a freshwater pond a few metres from the sea and ancient juniper trees, with Mount Fuji across the bay on clear mornings. It is easier to reach from Numazu than from Dogashima.

Sunsets, Fuji and the best season

The west coast faces the evening sun, so sunsets over Suruga Bay are its great spectacle. Mount Fuji is most often visible on clear winter mornings, when the air is dry; in summer it is usually hidden by haze. Spring and early summer bring calmer seas for boats and the low tides that reveal the tombolo, while autumn offers mild weather and fewer people. Whatever the season, keep an eye on the wind: strong westerlies in winter can stop the boats at Dogashima for the day.

A two-day plan

• Day 1: Mishima to Shuzenji by train, then the morning bus to Toi and Koganezaki. Continue to Dogashima in the afternoon for a boat trip, and watch the sunset from the coast. Night in Dogashima or Matsuzaki.
• Day 2: walk the tombolo if the tide is low, explore Matsuzaki's old streets, then either return to Shuzenji by bus or continue south towards Cape Irozaki and Shimoda, and take the train back up the east coast.

The loop from Mishima down the west coast and back up the east coast by train is one of the best ways to see the whole peninsula without a car, but it needs the bus timetable in hand.

Practical notes

• Bring cash: some small boat operators, shops and inns on the west coast do not take cards.
• Check the bus timetable for the day you travel; weekend and holiday timetables differ, and the last bus back towards Shuzenji leaves in the late afternoon.
• The coast road is narrow and winding; if you drive, allow more time than the map suggests and avoid driving back in the dark after sunset if you are not used to mountain roads.
• Mobile coverage is good in the towns but patchy on some headlands; download maps before you go.

Where to stay

Staying a night on the west coast lets you see the sunset without worrying about the last bus. Toi, Dogashima and Matsuzaki all have inns, many with baths facing the sea. Winter brings the clearest views of Fuji and the fewest people, but also stronger winds and fewer boats.