Shimoda in a day: Perry Road, Ryosenji, the ropeway and the black ship harbour

See · Shimoda · Published 2026-10-25.

Where Japan's isolation ended: a walking day in Shimoda from the station to Ryosenji temple and Perry Road, up the ropeway and out to the beaches and the Ryugu sea cave.

Tokyo → Izukyu-Shimoda

Odoriko, about 2 h 40 min

Ropeway

about 3 min to Mount Nesugata

Ryosenji

about 10 min on foot from the station

Shimoda, at the southern tip of the peninsula, is a beach town with a big place in Japanese history. In 1854 Commodore Perry's ships anchored here after the treaty that opened Japan's ports, and the first American consulate in Japan followed. Today the old town, the harbour and the beaches fit easily into one day on foot and by bus.

A short history

After the Treaty of Kanagawa in 1854, Shimoda became one of the first two ports opened to American ships. Perry's squadron anchored in the bay that spring, and in 1856 the first American consul, Townsend Harris, set up the consulate at Gyokusenji temple in the village of Kakisaki. Negotiations in Shimoda led to the commercial treaty of 1858. Many of the places linked to those years are still standing and close together, which makes the town easy to explore on foot.

Morning: up the ropeway

From Izukyu-Shimoda station, the Shimoda Ropeway climbs Mount Nesugata in about three minutes. From the top you see the harbour, the town and, on clear days, the Izu islands. There is a small park and a temple at the summit; it is the best way to understand the layout of the bay before walking it. Go early on a clear morning: the light is better for photos, and the cars are less crowded than at midday. The lower station is a few minutes' walk from Izukyu-Shimoda station, so you can start straight from the train, leave luggage in a coin locker and pick it up on the way back.

Late morning: Ryosenji and Perry Road

Walk through the town to Ryosenji temple, about ten minutes from the station, where the shogunate's officials and Perry's delegation agreed in 1854 on the additional articles that put the treaty into practice. The temple is a national historic site. From there, Perry Road follows a small canal lined with willows, stone bridges and old houses with namako-kabe walls, now home to cafés and bars. Our page on Jashumon, a retro coffee house, suggests a stop.

Beaches beyond Shirahama

Shimoda has more beaches than most visitors have time for. Shirahama is the big, lively one and the main surf beach. Kisami Ohama and Iritahama to the south have fine sand and clear water, and Tatadohama is quieter and popular with surfers. Sotoura, close to the town, is a sheltered bay that suits families. In the swimming season, lifeguards and showers run from mid-July to late August; outside it, the beaches are free for walking and photography but have no services.

Lunch and the harbour

Shimoda is a fishing port, and kinmedai, a red deep-sea fish, is the local speciality: simmered in a sweet soy broth, grilled, or as sashimi over rice. Small restaurants around the harbour and the station serve it at lunch, often more cheaply than in the evening. After lunch, walk to the harbour, where a black ship replica runs short sightseeing cruises around the bay. In mid-May the town holds its Black Ship Festival, with parades and fireworks commemorating Perry's arrival.

If it rains

Shimoda is an outdoor town, but a wet day still has options. The Shimoda Floating Aquarium, built in the bay, has dolphin encounters and a covered walkway along the tanks. The temples around Perry Road are atmospheric in the rain, and the cafés along the canal make a good refuge. A hot spring is the obvious answer for the afternoon: the inns of Rendaiji and Shimogamo are a short train or bus ride away and many sell day bathing.

Afternoon: Shimoda Park and the beaches

The hill above the harbour is Shimoda Park, the site of the old castle, with views over the sea; in June it is covered in hydrangeas. In summer, take a bus or taxi to Shirahama, the largest beach, or to the quieter coves further south. Out of season the beaches are almost empty and still beautiful. The Ryugu sea cave, with its heart-shaped skylight, is a short bus ride towards Tatadohama.

Further afield: Cape Irozaki and the south

With more time, take the Tokai Bus to Cape Irozaki, about 45 minutes, at the southern tip of the peninsula. A path leads to the lighthouse and a small shrine built into the cliff, and a cruise of about 25 minutes runs along the coast past arches and caves when the sea allows. In winter, the cliffs of Tsumekizaki, 15 minutes by bus from the station, are covered with wild narcissus from late December to the end of January.

Evening: a bath

Shimogamo Onsen, about 15 minutes by bus, and the inns of Rendaiji are the closest hot springs. For something unusual, the historic Kanaya Ryokan in Rendaiji has one of Japan's largest wooden baths.

Where to stay

Shimoda has business hotels near the station, resort hotels above the beaches and traditional inns in Rendaiji and Shimogamo. In summer, book early for anything near Shirahama; in winter you will have the pick of the town. A night here also lets you see the harbour at dusk, when the black ship comes in and the town goes quiet.

Getting there and around

The Odoriko and Saphir Odoriko run directly from Tokyo to Izukyu-Shimoda in about 2 hours 40 minutes. In town, most sights are walkable; buses serve the beaches and Cape Irozaki. A two-day bus pass for Irozaki and Shimoda covers the main routes. See our guide to getting around Izu for passes and timetables.